Step by Step Toilet Replacement

DIY Toilet Replacement: Step-by-Step Guide

Toilets are installations that last. Yet eventually, you’ll likely need to change a restroom in your home. It may be for restorative reasons or on the grounds that the latrine is broken or split, or it wastes a lot of water.

If the latrine is essentially spilling and you have to change its wax ring, you’ll follow similar steps for removing it and reinstallation.

Step by Step Instructions to Replace a Toilet

Replacing a toilet isn’t as hard as it might sound. All you truly need are a couple of hours and the correct instruments for the activity. Thus, you need to get together your new latrine, substitution wax ring, elastic gloves, a hacksaw, a clay blade, flexible wrenches, an unclogger, a basin, and some rags.

It’s very easy to replace your old or failing latrine. The most recent innovation in plumbing has made it possible to configure water-proficient latrines. Present-day latrines are beating the features that accompanied former models.

It’s really imaginable now to spend underneath $250 to supplant a wasteful latrine unit with top quality and high-effectiveness toilet. You also can settle on your decision shrewdly.

Today, latrines that devour 1.6 gallons of water have advanced to such an extent that they go with a more extensive entry segment behind the latrine bowl and more extensive openings in the flush valve. The largeness considers short and groundbreaking flushes. The outcome is decreased latrine stopping up and less, short flushes.

Issues of latrine stopping up are normal with more established latrines. Handymen state that they have these issues despite everything that exist with current yet mediocre latrines. It’s fitting to check the latrine models you find from your nearby tool shop or online, including their valuing.

Basically, look at them online to discover what different clients state about them. New latrines will, in general, experience an “investigating” mode where issues, for example, failing parts and holes are generally normal.

While picking a latrine, settle on your decision dependent on flush execution, unwavering quality, and simplicity of use. You’ll just do some little research and have a superior potential for success in finding a high quality and productive toilets.



Wardrobe Flange

A wardrobe flange is a metallic or plastic opened ring that is found around the latrine channel on which a latrine is normally darted.

Wardrobe Elbow

A Wardrobe Elbow is the channel elbow on which the spine is joined.

Wardrobe Bolts

These re a couple of screws utilized in connecting the latrine onto the rib.

Wax Ring

This is a wax ring that frames a seal when set between the latrine base and the storeroom spine.


Apparatuses and Supplies You Will Need

  • A wipe and pail
  • Elastic gloves
  • Towels
  • Supply tube
  • Utility blade
  • Clay blade
  • Customizable wrench
  • A channel-sort of pincers
  • Normal pincers
  • Latrine seat
  • Screws for the latrine seat
  • Infiltrating oil
  • Screwdriver
  • Wax ring without a spine
  • Wax ring with a spine
  • Hacksaw
  • Teflon tape

Skills Required: Using hand apparatuses/lifting at a weight of around 20-25 kgs/making some pressure joints

Trouble Level: Moderate (You’ll approximately need an hour to finish this undertaking)

Ensure you purchase a latrine that fits the space. You ought to rather gauge the current space to guarantee it’ll fit well.

To do this, take the estimation of the separation between the latrine screws on the floor and the divider behind.

If your latrine is fitted with two arrangements of screws, take estimations from the behind arrangement of screws. You’ll get a separation of around 10 to 12 creeps for a standard latrine space.

Additionally, note whether the state of the latrine bowl is oval (long) or round. Oval latrine bowls are otherwise called extended dishes.

They’re somewhat longer than cycle ones and offer more noteworthy comfort. In any case, an oval bowl may be greater than the current space if it’s intended for a round bowl.

The ideal alternative is purchasing a substitution bowl of a similar shape to the current one.


Steps You Need To Follow When You Are Replacing a Toilet

Stage 1:

To start with, we need to remove the current latrine. Prior to separating anything, guarantee the water supply to the latrine is terminated at the stop valve.
Flush to empty the toilet by holding the latrine handle for quite a while to guarantee it flushes longer than ordinary. Utilize a wipe to purge any water left in the tank.
Finally, unthread the toilet with a coupling nut. A coupling nut is the nut interfacing the latrine tank and with its water supply. Utilize a channel-sort of forceps to unthread it. If you have a wet vacuum, you can also use the vacuum to remove water left in the bowl and tank.

Stage 2:

Utilize a couple of forceps or box wrench to grip every latrine tank screw. You can balance out each fastener utilizing an opened screwdriver when you are removing them. If the nut is stuck, you can apply some screw losing oil on them. Take into account the oil has to sit before you try to unthread them.
If the nuts don’t get unstuck, you can cut them off utilizing a hacksaw. At that point, remove the old tank and dispose of it.

Stage 3:

Next, you can unthread the nuts holding the latrine bowl on the floor. You can start by removing any fastener covers utilizing a screwdriver. Utilize a channel-kind of forceps or locking pincers or attachment wrench to relax each nut on the latrine tank screws. If the nuts feel stuck, apply some infiltrating oil on them and permit it to sit before attempting to unthread them.
In case you’re as yet incapable of unthreading them, cut them off utilizing a hacksaw. At that point, tilt the bowl and segregate it.

Additional Tips:

It very well may be very disgusting to expel old wax rings. It’s really one of the most nauseating occupations in plumbing. In this situation, you’ll have to utilize a clay blade to remove the wax ring.

Spot the clay blade beneath the wax ring spine and scratch it. As a rule, the ring will disengage in lumps. Make sure to dispose of every single lump when it falls off since they effectively stick on anything.

If some buildup is left, clean them off utilizing a mineral spirit. When the zone is spotless, take a cloth and stuff it into the channel to obstruct any sewer gas. It’s really the wax ring that has a significant effect between foul-smelling water closets and good ones.

Stage 4:

You would now be able to get rid of the cloth by expelling it from the opening of the channel and then add new latrine screws (made of metal) into the flange spaces at 9 and 3 o’clock.
Pivot each screw at a ¼ go to guarantee the heads won’t be pulled back. Next, put the washers or plastic attendants on the new screws.
At that point, put the nuts and secure them onto the rib. Next, open up the new wax ring. At that point, position the ring on the flange.

Stage 5:

Lower your new latrine over the ring to such an extent that the latrine fasteners enter the screw gaps on the stool. This might be risky to do; along these lines, be careful while doing it or get help. Next, press the latrine downwards to situate safely in the ring. Make sure to check whether it’s level.

In the event that it’s not level, utilize a few pennies underneath it to level it. String the washers and latrine nuts on the latrine floor screws. Fix the nuts somewhat individually while exchanging from one nut to the next—Dodge over fixing the nuts.

Utilize a hacksaw to remove the uncovered fastener segment over the nuts. At that point, top the screws. Next, apply tile caulk all around the latrine base while leaving the back zone open to permit water to getaway. This will permit you to identify a break.

Stage 6:

You would now be able to join the water tank. Some latrine tanks, for the most part, accompany preinstalled fill and flush valves.

In any case, if your latrine doesn’t accompany preinstalled valves, you’ll have to introduce them yourself through the water tank opening.

Fix the spud nut on the strung side of the flush valve. Next, insert a spud washer over the valve spud nut.

Stage 7:

You can modify the latrine fill valve if essential.

Stage 8:

Next, position the latrine valve inside the latrine tank.

At that point, push the new valve shank downwards from the base while fixing its locknut with your hand.

Try not to utilize any devices to fix the nut. Carefully utilize your hands.

Stage 9:

Lay the tank on its posterior. String a washer (elastic one) on each screw. Supplement each screw from inside the water tank.

Next, string another washer (metal one) on the tank from underneath. From that point forward, string a hex nut on the screw from beneath.

Next, fix them a ¼ turn. Evade over fixing them.

Stage 10:

Lift the water tank and position it over the latrine bowl.

Position the spud washer over the opening and addition the screws through the screw gaps.

Next, put washers on every single screw. Start by inserting an elastic based washer. At that point, insert a metal-based washer. Next, insert a wing sort of nut on each screw. Fix them all equitably.

Stage 11:

You can utilize an opened screwdriver to balance out the latrine fasteners from the inside piece of the latrine tank. Be that as it may, just fix the latrine nuts and not the latrine fasteners.

You can press the tank a tad on the back, front, or side to make it level while fixing the nuts with your hand.

Keep away from over fixing the nuts as this may harm the tank. Guarantee the tank is steady and level after fixing.

Stage 12:

You would now be able to fix the main water supply to the latrine tank.

Do this by interfacing another water tubing to the fill valve. Utilize the coupling nut that accompanied the cylinder.

Permit water to stream by turning on the main water supply to test for any holes.

Stage 13:

At long last, connect the new latrine seat.

String the metal or plastic screws that accompanied the new latrine seat into the gaps on edge.

Join the nuts from underneath and fix it solidly to set it up.

Stage 14:

Interface the water supply tube to the fill valve on the new latrine, and fix it delicately with pincers. Open the latrine’s shutoff valve by turning it counterclockwise as far as possible.

Let the latrine tank fill; at that point, flush the latrine to check for legitimate activity. Watch for spills at the water line associations and around the latrine base. Whenever wanted, seal around the base of the latrine with a dot of unadulterated silicone caulk.

Some installers leave the exceptionally back of the base uncaulked with the goal that a latrine hole will uncover itself all the more promptly.

Most new latrines accompany the fill valve and flush valve previously introduced into the tank, yet it’s conceivable you should purchase these fittings independently and introduce them yourself.

This is most effortless to do before introducing the latrine. However, you can do it a short time later, as well.

Suppose every home improvement offered such an outsize award for so little exertion! In spite of the fact that we only sometimes recognize it, the latrine —above all else a down to earth part—really goes far toward affecting the presence of a restroom, particularly one with a little impression.

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